If someone asked me fifteen years ago, “What moment has changed my life?” I would have jumped at the chance to ramble on about numerous life-altering moments. The first big wave, the time I broke my back at Waimea, the barrel at Jaws, the glacier, or the world record wave in Portugal, the awards, the victories, etc, etc, etc. At that time in my career, I thought that the most important things were getting a shot in a surf mag, winning titles and awards and working with companies that wanted to give me money whether I believed in what they represented or not.
That all changed the day I laid eyes on my wife-to-be, the lovely Nicole. Although it sounds like a self-fulfilling event as mentioned above (and it was), what she has taught me since that fateful day altered my purpose on this planet.